TRAVELOGUE

      

Sheikh Qayoom Madni brings the firsthand account of the things in and around the Kaman Aman Setu Post, connecting the two parts of Kashmir 

Adorned beautifully they came zigzag like the summer's colourful birds. Moving slowly like turtle doves, they catch the glimpse of each passerby. Each one had surpassed the other in decoration, but all were representing their people to this part of the land. They were from Chakoti, Muzaffarabad, Gilgit and Lahore. They were the vehicles carrying goods to this part of Kashmir from the brother-concern Muzaffarabad.      

We, from this part who had gone to visit the end post, the Kaman Aman Setu Bridge, hugged the vehicles. We had come down from the vehicles and held the colourful vehicles in middle of the road. Mesmerizing and enjoying, each did everything he /she can to express love for the vehicles; actually that is what is in the genes of the Kashmiris, their love for the people in other part of the Kashmir.All lenses, natural and artificial went-up to capture every movement with the vehicles. Without letting any movement to go waste, we shared the feelings with them as if to achieve all comforts of life, goal and destination. The scene was predicted and obvious, we all were in age group between 22 and 25 years and had heard about the other part in tales only.  

The policeman guarding there for the smooth functioning of the vehicles was signaling to let vehicles to come, but who cared. It was only after our full satisfaction we let the vehicles to go, happily happily.            

We reached the Kaman post at 12:30 post meridian, thirty minutes later than scheduled time, because the vehicles from other part had to cross the bridge, the Kaman post exactly at the 12 noon. We were received by the Army Major Siddarth, posted here with full warmth. Siddarth, well-built young man near about six feet has enshrined in him all the qualities of an army man. With blue eyes, blackish face, short nose with openings a little broad, broad lips, open ears and an army hair cut he looked quite pleasing. Wearing an army jacket and the pent gripped in the boots Siddarth gave company for the one and a half hour we stayed there.Siddarth narrated the state of affairs there in the Kaman post between the two sides .

The trade between the two sides is same like of the barter system. The 21 vehicles from the Muzaffarabad side carry commodities to this part and the vehicles from this side carry goods to Muzaffarabad. The trade does not involve the exchange of the money; rather it is the exchange of the commodities. From here the destination where the vehicles are unloaded is the Salaamabad and there is the Chakoti. The vehicles after being unloaded turn to their respective places without carrying anything from either places- Salaamabad or Chakoti. No frisking or checking takes place at the Kaman post on part of army, rather strict checking is held at the destination places, where no common man is allowed to enter.The army from the both sides enjoy a good relation, “it is only the politicians that are after each other, we have good relation with each other” the major said, smiled while looking to the other side. Major Siddarth from this side and captain Naveed from other side (Pakistan) held the flag-ship meetings five times in a week with each other in the middle of the Kaman Aman Setu pull. “Naveed is the good friend, and we discuss with each other our issues in good mannerism,” Siddarth narrated.

The Kaman Aman Setu Bridge is white in colour connecting the two sides. It was launched on 07 April, 2005 for the historic Srinagar-uri-Muzaffarabad bus service. In 2008-09 India and Pakistan agreed to have trade between the two sides. From the other side (Muzaffarabad side) two banner boards are placed one in front of the pull and other adjacent to it. The first reads, “from home to home we extend a very warm welcome to our Kashmiri brethren” and the other reads “Pakistan se Rishta kya, La-i-Laha-il-lalla”. On both the boards two flags one of Pakistan and one of Azad Kashmir are placed side by side. On this side (Kashmir side) one board reads, “Mazhab nahi sikhata aaps mein Baer rakhna” while symbols of the religions-Hinduism, Islam, Christianity, and Sikhism are placed on it. The other reads, “Sare jahan se aacha Hindustan hamara, Hum bulbule hain iskay yeh gulistan hamara” written on the Indian flag.   

Pakistani army has built underground barracks and only the little holes are visible where from they keep eye on the Indian army .While as the main camping is on the top of the hill from where the Pakistani soldiers were seen visible. A few soldiers were also visible near the barracks flagging hands towards us and the same was retaliated from this side emotionally. The Pakistani flag was making rounds and below the soldiers were performing ablution for noon prayers, as was seen through binoculars. As long as we reached there Pakistan soldiers appeared on the hill top gazing at us constantly through binoculars, “they got know who have arrived here and capture you and all your movements” voiced Siddarth.Indian army has a one concrete barrack in front of the bridge all coloured in white. Inside are the soldiers guarding and the gun muzzle is pointed towards other side. Outside is the dog that keeps growling and growling. As we reached there he got started and didn’t stop even after being convinced by the man posted there, “baet jao, baet jao” he was shrieking.

Capturing each and everything there in the Kaman post, the major gave a call to let him show some other things. First the guest house was shown.it is the place where persons who have to go to other part of the Kashmir are made to stay till their travel documents and other requirements are checked. Near to it is the SRTC’s apartment where the documents are checked. In one of the corner lay a bulky machine that checks the bags travellers carry with them.Pakistani bullet has pierced the window panes in the guest house and in the apartment , “I was hit by Pakistani fire  on  22 may 2011” a label like it was pasted below each sign of the bullet. “The firing has always been from their side and in return we first see from where the bullets come and accordingly we retaliate,” Siddarth said. They once attacked my cabin right above my head, they know where I stay. “When I took the matter with Naveed, he always denies saying that it is the militants that throw bullets.”      
      

In front of the guest house lay the resting place of Hazrat Kamal-ud-Din Bhalki (RA), a famous saint who came to Kashmir via Chakoti with the veteran Bulbul shah (RA) in the 725 hijri. A small tomb is built there in his memory by the Six Bihar regiment, posted there. With green flags hanging from the roof top, the tomb is well decorated and maintained. Exactly from the tomb the Islamabad, Pakistan’s capital is 200, Muzaffarabad 52 and Chakoti just 2 kilometers away.            

Strategically Pakistan Army has a upper hand as it stands in high altitude as compared to India Army. It seems here that India has taken a defensive approach; “yes here they are in high altitude, but we have also some places where we can see them, even the villages and their vehicles” the Major Siddarth was quick to add.